Saturday, May 28, 2011

Amsterdam: To Bicycle or To Not Bicycle

About five years ago when I was in Amsterdam I went to a place that rents biycles with a question: Did they give bicycle riding lessons?

The person who I asked at Mike's Bicycles , Niels, was pretty shocked. I imagine all Dutch people who seem to effortlessly ride bicycles, often performing elaborate and beautiful dismounts (watch sometimes, it's like bicycle ballet), couldn't imagine that well into my 20's why I couldn't ride a bicyle.



So he taught me. I picked it up pretty quickly because I was determined to get over the fear I've had since I was a 10 year old girl. The first time I ever rode a bike I flew over the handlebars and ended up needing a lot of stitches. I didn't get back up on the two-wheeled horse so to speak.

Once I learned I was addicted though still slightly nervous. While Holland is pretty flat in general, the tram tracks in Amsterdam are a bit scary when they're wet. Still it didn't stop me from buying a bicycle when I found a little vintage Peugot (from a bicycle shop on the Boulevard Beaumarchais) city bike and riding it all over Paris - even up as far as I could make it on the massive hill that is Avenue Gambetta!

Sure I was hit by a car (while sitting on my bicycle on the sidewalk of all places) and I've fallen a time or two, but it is still by far my favourite way to go around Paris. Yes the Metro is convenient, but being on a bike fighting it out with cars, pedestrians, and people on scooters is pretty fun too.

I discourage people who ask me if they should rent bicycles in Amsterdam. First off unless you're an experienced cyclist I recommend staying off the streets while people rush to and from work. Bicycles are the main form of transportation for so many people in Amsterdam that it's almost thoughtless to get in their way. I feel the same way about tourists who block the doors on the Metro. It messes up the rhythm.

Secondly, renting a bicycle is a great way to see Amsterdam as you ride past it. It's not a great way to see Amsterdam if you want to be stop when you want, window shop, actually shop, eat a broodje, stop at a koffehuis, take pictures, or suddenly stop in the middle of the road for whatever reason.  If you want to discover Amsterdam the best way is on foot, as it is in any easily traversed distance in any city.

When I last brought some friends to Amsterdam I told them my personal rule of thumb: If you know where you're going and it's far, then rent a bicycle. I usually end up staying in the Jordaan when I'm in Amsterdam, so if say I want to go to the Albert Cuypt Markt or the Brouwerij (the only windmill in Amsterdam is an amazing microbrewery) or the Artis Zoo, I'll rent a bicycle and make a day of it.

If you do decide to rent a bicycle you need to learn the rules of the road for your own safety and to make the experience a more enjoyable one. Speaking from personal experience nothing is more stressful than not knowing where you can go and can't and what the various signs mean. I've never received one, but I've heard you can get tickets from the police for certain offenses.

I also recommend taking insurance. Yes it's more expensive, but bicycles get stolen all the time in A'dam, so you're better off paying the insurance just in case. Make sure wherever you rent your bicycle that you understand what is covered in your insurance and under what circumstances. A friend of mine rented a bicycle once, locked it up somewhere, and when it was stolen it wasn't covered by the insurance because of where she left it. Now I'm not sure if this was a disreputable rental place or not because when she called me to ask it did sound like a legitimate reason if only because it was in the rental place's "rules" - so make sure you know all the terms and conditions before you agree to rent from anywhere.

I don't know if I'll rent a bicycle this trip, perhaps I will when I arrive to Zandvoort to bicycle down the coast. I have a thing for Zandvoort. Maybe it's because of the history of Holland fighting off the sea and yet loving the water that the threatens their "hinterland" at the same time. The dykes and the system used to keep the country from flooding is extremely poetic. The dykes fight against the sea and yet return the same water they hold back to the sea to fight it all over again.



I like to go and stand on the sand and look out at the North Sea who is both friend and potential enemy to one of my favourite places. The dyke system of Holland is one of the greatest achievements of mankind and perhaps one of the greatest "water" themed innovations since the Roman aquaducts. I spoke with a friend's father, who has worked on the dykes for almost his entire career and he explained to me about the history of the "terpen" and how Holland grew a 12th province in the late 80's (Flevoland) by reclaiming land that had been previously reclaimed by the sea in the 13th century.

Besides standing on the beach, staring at the sea Zandvoort is a pretty popular resort town so there are plenty of other things to do, but if you want a break from the crowds that are inevitable in the summer months, rent a bicycle and ride as far as your legs will take you. It's much easier going and less stressful than riding around Amsterdam.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Please leave a comment.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...